๏ปฟ Hydro Spinach V1 Archives - inhouseGarden

Hydro Spinach FINAL

HydroSpinach V1.0 FINAL

http://ekermuhendislik.net/?figarofit=mujeres-solteras-araucania&a0e=c5 After a few days of tests on the grow bed I noticed that it sucked. Plastic was too flimsy to support all the weight of the grow bed. So scratch that idea. Also the tryout did not work as the fan dried the grow bed and evaporated half of the water from the nutrition fluid.

site de rencontre lotus Copying the floating foam grow base from the personal food computer I made a tiny foam board with holes to house the sprouts.

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http://bestone.com.au/?feed=rss2 For some reason these did not sprout out correctly either. I think I might have a problem with the seeding or the structure is just too open and sucks.

funny speed dating london All in all Hydrospinach V1.0 is a failed project. I will use some of the parts for the Hydrotree V3.0.

Hydro Spinach version 1 day 3

Hydro Spinach version 1 day 3

Day three

click I replaced the 12V power supply with a bigger one. now there is 120W of power and that should be plenty. Now the idea is that the HydroSpinach growing machine runs without supervision on its own. To have this done safely I think I need the fuses. LED grow lights for example take 72W. If there is a malfunction and it sorts the power supply will automatically cut it off after the threshold load is reached. I assume that it is somewhere a bit higher then 120W. In case of malfunction on this quality ๐Ÿ™‚ LED strip from China and it shorts but the threshold is not reached. It still can cause a hazard. Lets say its starts heating up and uses 144W that is the double it normally uses. It might be the case that it will combust in to flames and the power supply is not aware of the short. This is why the fuses are needed. So for the grow lights I think I would go with 80W/12V =6,6666... amps so a fuse as close to that as possible. Also for the rest of the power lines in the machine. Same principle. I want the fuse to burn before my workshop does ๐Ÿ™‚


I been test running the HydroSpinach for the last week. Noticed that the temperature meter that is mounted on-top of the grow lights is getting some heat from the lamps bellow it. I took a piece of foam and made a 5cm high "weather tower" Also added a light sensor to it. If you want to check it out I made the sensor readings public at Thingspeak.

how many mg of unisom can i take while pregnant Cool isn't it? All the measurements are updated there every ten minutes. Also added one buffed measurement for the grow lights just to see that the logic works.

Programming challenge

cystone himalaya price in india One of the biggest programming problems I had was with the time. I heard from a friend that the Spark cores clock is shit and needs to be set on every loop. Now I had that in with punch of other changes so it took me quite some time to try to remove it and notice that it was the thing that killed the execution. Problem was that on every loop the Spark core restarted and this restart fucked up the whole execution. No sensor readings in Thingspeak. Restart was caused by this Particle.syncTime() function. I have it now only in the setup and not in the loop and all works nicely. Maybe if I put that in the back of the loop and it can do the restart as the last thing of the loop. I think if the time is a problem I will do that.

Now enough fiddling with the electronics

I need a grow something and this requires some work on the reservoir. The plastc box that I so far have taped with white ductape is going to act as a reservoir. Now the idea is to have the grow top be all rockwool sitting on some sort of frame that keeps it from sinking into the water. Also this frame would have handles so that I can lift the grow bed of the reservoir for maintenance and for changing the nutrient solution.

On the sides of the reservoir I used hot glue to put some plastic corners. Its just a cut from an L profile of plastic with 2cm per side. One piece on middle of each side of the reservoir.ย  I also put a tiny piece to each four corners of the reservoir to add support to the corners

The actual frame would beย  an simple X shape. with some wire glued to each end as handles. First try was to use the same plastic L profile that I used on the sides of the reservoir. This turned out to be too flimsy as the wet rock-wool weights quite a bit. After a one hour test the plastic frame gave in and the rock-wool bed sank into the reservoir.

Next up was to go through my workshop to see what would be available. Found some aluminium L profile. Same size as the plastic one. I used the same principal as with the plastic except tried to make the center a bit more sturdy. Test is still running after 5h and grow bed has not yet sank ๐Ÿ™‚

In short this grow bed assembly will be a challenge. I think it is still not sturdy enough. Sure it holds the empty grow bed but what when it actually has growing spinach on it? then need to move it up and down... Thing will need to be enhanced before any spinach can grow on the machine.

Added the rock-wool and nutrient solution. Sprinkled some Spinach seeds on top. Now its a wait game... Will they grow? Will they... ๐Ÿ˜€

Thats that for to day.

Still to do:

  • Fuses. For safety I need some fuses...
  • Grow bed frame needs to be made more sturdy.
  • Camera... Need to figure out how that works

Hydro Spinach V1 Day 2

Hydro Spinach version 1 day 2

That day I started to do Internet of things things ๐Ÿ™‚

I thought that my growing things need to be connected. I have some Spark Cores on the shelve and wanted to use them. Now they are known as Photon Particle. Same thing different name and bit more memory but basically for the purposes of this post the devices are the same.

conocer hombres en san nicolas para amistad What it is? Its a micro controller, a device that when turned on runs a program over and over again. Program can control relays and read sensor data. It can use the sensor data to control the relays and so on. Spark Core has two parts in its programming.

enter site The Setup. This part is ran ones when the chip is powered up. Commonly used to set up all needed stuff to run the program like time. You can read some super accurate time of the internet and set the system clock on that.

get link The Loop. This is the actual program and the Spark Core will try to execute this loop over and over again as fast as it possible can like its life depended on it. That is all it does. You can be quite creative in the loop. Read sensors set relays add a delay so that you can control the action runs. Usually you do not need the program to run 1000 time a second but something like ever 10 minutes.

I started with some simple things as I never used anything like a micro controller before. I have some electronics experience and basics from school about 15 years ago ๐Ÿ˜› but thats about it.

Two things I know I want to do with the Spark core in my Hydro Spinach project. Firstly I want it to control the grow lights. 18h on and 6h off. Secondly I want it to read a sensor measurements.


Relays click click click

First test is to have a program changing the relay on and off. I made a small loop that changes the relay that is off every second. See the video ๐Ÿ™‚ As you might hear that there is one of the relays that does not react to the controls. The indicator light changes but the relay does not "click". First I thought the relay board is broken. Stupid relay board. Sent it back to the supplier and got a new one in mail. Same thing. No click on one of the relays. After a little googling and research I found out that the Spark core pins have a signal strength of 3.3V. The relay board is a 5V relay that requires a voltage close to 5V in order to work. What happened was that the signal tried to make the relay "click" but did not have enough power to do so. It actually is so close to the required voltage that it sometimes works and sometime not. Two options. Get a 3.3V relay that will work with the voltage of the Spark core. Unfortunately they are not too common. I mean as a relay there are plenty but a ready made board that has all the bells and whistles is not easy to find and the ones I found were double the price of 5V relay board. Second option is to get a level changer. Its a tiny component that takes the 3.3V signal and changes it to 5V. These a quite cheap and easy to set up so this is what I went with. Ordered a bunch of them as they are like 2โ‚ฌ each ๐Ÿ™‚

World of sensors

Second thing the micro controller of Hydro spinach needs to do is to read some sensors. Currently there are four sensors I planed to have.

Environment sensor made by Groove utilising Bosch BME280. It measures Air temperature, Air pressure and humidity.

Light sensor. Also important to the project as in case there is enough sunlight in the room the grow lights are not needed so I can save on energy.

Water temperature sensor. One wire sensor sensing the water temperature.

Camera to take a picture of the project progress.

I plugged the BME280 in and did some programming magic ๐Ÿ™‚ searched for a ready library and example code and by the magic of copy pasting got a reading out of the sensor. See the video.

Now I am happy in the progress I made. First time and nothing really did not work so far.


Additional parts to the grow base.

I need to get on with the prototype build. Got the base done so now I need to build the top where the grow lamps are housed. Cut some triangles of wood and a piece of plywood on top of it. I was so lazy that I just wet the plywood a little and forced it on-top of the triangle frame I made for it. It worked sort of but does not look nice. Next time I will do some cuts ๐Ÿ™‚ Glued some aluminium kitchen foil under it to be the reflector.

Grow lights is actually a 5 meter long led strip that I cut and soldered into a for to create 12 lines of LEDsย under the reflector. Soldering each of the 12 pieces in to one another so that I can do the turn that is needed to create 12 straight lines.


Challenging ๐Ÿ™‚

Now I got to tell you what I spent the next 3h doing. The led strip has a adhesive tape under it so you can just use that to stick it under the plugged them in to the 12V power supply. Now who would have known that kitchen foil and the cheap led strip would create a short? Well it does so next I spent ripping the foil off the reflector and also the adhesive side of the led strip. Fun fun fun ๐Ÿ˜€ Man I was pissed off but at the end I got all removed and all the LEDs in the strip light upย again.

Another challenge

Regarding the grow lights. I used this out of eBay. It says 14,4W. Now my power supply is 60W so it is plenty. After test running the rig for few hours I noticed that the power supply is heating up a bit. Just a bit but enough for me to worry a bit. Well turns out the led strip is 14,4W per meter and there is five meters in the whole roll. Of course I used all of it. For five meter run of the strip it totals to 72W. 12W over the power supplies max load. Now odd thing is that in theory when the max load is reached the power supply should automatically cut power as it thinks its shorting out but it does not. This makes me think of a future add on before the workshop burns down is to add a fuse to each out let. It really needs to cut power in case more load is applied then it can handle.ย  Also ordered 120W power supply to compensate the power need.


Now all hydroponic applications need to have a fan that circulates the air around the plant leaves. Plans use up CO2 around the leaves really fast so the steady flow of air will make sure they always have lots of fresh air to go through. I got a un-used computer fan and wanted to mount that on the grow light top. Made a pice of wood with a angle that would make the fan point little inwards and screwed it to the top. Happy with that solution.



I screwed the sensor BME280 to the top of the grow lamp shade and the camera under the grow lights near the spine. The fan, sensors and camera required an extended cables and I accomplished that by taking a short grow cable and cutting it in half. Soldered one and a half meter of extension to each cable. Hope the length of the cable will not be a problem.


Electronics to the base

Added all the electronics to the base. Air pump, power supply and the Spark core. Ran some mains power into the box and used Wago connectors to route the power to the right places. Then the power for the water pump, the air tube and the temperature One Wire sensor I pulled from the little grove in the spine into the plastic box full of water and turned everything on to see if it works. Power for the Spark Core I needed to run directly from a usb charger. This I plan to replace with a custom power down step converter.

Thats again enough for one day ๐Ÿ˜€



  • First ever connected setup utilising Spark Core.
  • Still need to setup the Step up adapter between the Spark Core and 5V relay board.
  • Light sensor and the camera are not utilised yet. Need to figure that out.
  • That little load issues created two additional todos. Bigger power supply and fuses.
  • Little odds and ends before I can start running the Version 1 ๐Ÿ™‚ At some point the improvements will need to be done into the V2 ๐Ÿ™‚

Hydro Spinach V1 day 1

Hydro Spinach version 1 day 1

The plan

Wanted grow some spinach. Two reasons, the spinach out of stores is grown in unknown and rumours say in quite the questionable environments. Secondly that thing does not die easy ๐Ÿ™‚ Making growing easy as pie... Hopefully. I saw a documentary about some thing or other and in it they showed spinach surviving sub zero temperatures. This I conclude makes spinach easy to grow.

What do we want to have? Grow lights, basic hydroponics, sensors and camera.ย 

Grow lights will contribute to the grow speed, regardless if there is sunlight or not.ย 

Basic hydroponics. Air pump and water bump. Works like any other such system.

Sensors. I want to document the grow environment and I found a BME280 by Bosch. It measures air temperature, air pressure and humidity. Also I plan to put a water temperature meter. One I got is called One Wire temperature sensor.ย 

Camera for making cool photos so I may do a time-laps on how spinach grows.ย 


Getting started

I got some plastic boxes. One is about 20cm high and the other is about 40cm high. Problem with both is that they are transparent. To prevent the nutrition solution in the box to start growing algae and other non desirables I wrapped them in white duct-tape. You might have noticed the strips of white paint showing from under the duct-tape. Yes I tried ones again to paint plastic. I roughed the surface with sandpaper before painting. Cleaned it up too well so it has no grease on it. Still the paint pealed off. Got to start remembering that the stupid plastic can not be painted easily enough to be of any use. ย In the future no more transparent plastic boxes ๐Ÿ™‚


This whole prototype is comprised of four parts.ย 

Wooden frame. Box at the bottom that houses air pump, power supply and most of the wiring. The grow lights at the top that has the grow led lights, sensor BME280 and a fan. Now the wooden frame started of by just making a box. Sized it to fit under the plastic box. It is 6cm high and the bottom is made of 5mm plywood. That wooden stick sticking out of the box at the back is the spine. It will keep the grow lights at the top and the bottom attached to it.ย 

I used a router to make a groove into the spine for all the wiring and air pipe. It wiggled like no other. Instead of nice professional looking groove I got a line that looks like a drunk guy pissing on the snow. Well it will do its job. Made a cut into the spine where the plastic boxes handle goes.ย 

After the box was finished I noticed that it will not be high enough to house the air pump. DAMN! So I added a round of 2cm by 2cm strip extending the high to 8cm. Now it should fit nicely.


Day 1

On thats enough for one day ๐Ÿ™‚ Great punch of disappointing errors and still progressing nicely. I'll be growing spinach in no time.